need some help here - and don't want to pay my local Heatilator dealer the $150 trip charge + parts to look at this.
I have a Heatilator 36' gas fireplace - model GCDC36E
When I turn on the wall switch, the ignition works, the fire starts, looks great. 2 seconds later it shuts off. Happens every time. (worked last week!) When I lift the bottom flap to look inside at the wiring, the ignition module has a flashing red light after it shuts off.
According to my manual, I have a RobertShaw DS845 ignition module.
Any idea what the problem is? What does that red light mean?
I have the exact same problem with a heatilator direct vent (also 9 years old) , with a Robert Shaw DS845 Controller. I have paid the $150 and it is still not fixed. The service people insisted that it was the ignitor which was replaced. That did not solve the problem. Although they said the controller checked out fine they now want to replace it for $125 which I am very reluctant to do.
The burner lights and shuts off after about 3 seconds with a click, the LED light on the controller flashes continuously until power is shut off. Do you think the controller should be replaced?
Post moved into this topic.
I Have The Exact Same Problem....went Thru The Same So-called Fixes....new Ignitor And New Module .....still Does The Same Thing....click Power Switch, The Ignitor Works, Gas Lites Up, And Then Shuts Down...recycles Itself Several Times...yep, The Lite On The Module Is Flashing....does Anybody In This World Have An Answer For The Problem....the Experts Where I Bought The Fire Place And The Manufacturer Heatilator Have Flunked At Their Jobs....please, Need Answers...thanks
is this a direct spark ignition unit or standing pilot? i may be able to help but i cant find info on the unit online.
this unit is a DSI and is known for this phenomenon.
You need a qualified tech to service it. However, the key is in the grounding of the igniter . Have the tech pull the igniter, polish its contact with the chassis then cut off the ground wire and crimp on a new ring terminal on a spot polished up shiney.
If you have 110 vac with the correct polarity, 24 volt ac at the transformer and all the wiring good, you're just getting started. Check the venting, burner, gas pressures, etc.
Not a DIY situation. If the want the Fp to work properly, pay a qualified tech. Otherwise, leave it off.
Hearthman
I also have the same problem. :I have Heatilator GNBR36E Gas Fireplace. Robershaw DS-845 ignitor controller. The flame comes on and stays for only 15 seconds then off for 30 seconds. It cycles for 3-4 times. Then everything is off, but red light is blinking on Robershaw DS-845.
Heatilator must have too many problems, they don't even recognize this model number manufactured 9 years ago. My tenants are convinced it was connected to furnace thermostat, they have been using it in winter months when thermostat is set on heat.
I called three local dealers. They wanted $150 to $300 for service call. They all said fireplace had nothing to do with furnace and my problem could be air buble in gas line or bad relay or ??.
I also laughed at my tenant's suggestion, but tried out to save dealer service call. I turned the furnace on increased setting to higher than room temp and lighted fireplace..It worked. Don't know how, and don't know why. After 5 minutes I turned furnace off. Fireplace worked correctly that day.
I know this is not the solution. I am sure there is something wrong with Robershaw DS-845. Can some one help??
I was experiencing the same problem and I was able to fix it.
At first, I thought it might be the controller which is the dreaded Robertshaw DS-845 previously mentioned. The LED light was flashing continuously and I was unable to find anything on the web that gave me an explanation of the continuous flashing.
I polished the connectors plugged them back in per the suggestions posted here. I vacuumed out all the dust, made sure the junction box had power. Considered that it might be the transformer... but since the fireplace actually turned on, that didn't make sense. It seems like there are so many possible points of failure with one of these units.
One clue was the flame produced was pretty weak and had a lot of blue. That's an indication that it's not getting enough gas. Also, when the burner lit up, it was only on one side and not the entire burner.
Finally removed the controller box out of desperation. Followed the thick white wire up to the igniter. Had to remove the logs the burner unit from the top in order to access. What I found was that the top of the white wire had a connector (ring) that was secured in place by a screw. It had come loose/corroded and was hanging by a thread. There was also some putty and a gasket ring that were pretty deteriorated. But just by stripping the wire and securing it into place, the whole burner unit lit back up and stayed on! It's been working perfectly
Anyway, you might try checking out the white wire that connects up to the igniter. Make sure you disconnect from power source turn off the gas first. Also, be very careful when removing the log set. There are specific instructions on do this I found in the Heatilator user manual. There is a porcelain piece attached to the igniter and it is fragile.
I was able to fix my Heatilator and it didn't cost a penny!!
Hope this helps.
My problem was that after my fireplace lit ( Heatilator, Inc. MODEL: GNDC36E NAT ), the spark ignitor would continue to spark while the flame was already on. The control unit couldn't detect the presence of the flame and would shut the gas off thinking there was only gas pouring into the fireplace without a flame. When initially troubleshooting the problem, I wasn't able to hear the spark ignitor running after the fireplace was lit. I could only hear it after I removed the glass window. Once that was done, I could hear it continue to spark, then the controller, Yes-the dreaded $180.00 Robertshaw MODEL # DS845 NL-1-4, SERIAL # 100-00832-13, would shut down the flame and the continuous red LED would flash. I'd cycle the power and get it to repeat this failure everytime with minimal variances. I searched all over the internet for help on a DIY basis and found this Posting from Vickyaase. I read the below posting from Vickyaase and thought this might be a maintenance based problem. I followed Vickyaase's instructions exactly and found that my ignitor ground was also extremely corroded. So in hopes, I cleaned it up, cut the wire back to clean copper and crimped on a new connector and sanded down the metal base. To my dismay, it did the same exact problem as before. No change.
So I broke down and said,Let's try replacing the controller.
So, I looked up the part number and found the new upgraded control unit, IGM780502, bought it, and $180.00 dollars later, my fireplace worked perfectly. No problems. The new controller was able to sense the flame presence and stop the ignitor from continuing to spark. I believe there are a few problems with this fireplace and the key to troubleshooting my fireplace was when I found that my spark ignitor was continuing to spark after the flame ignited. I also believe that cleaning the ignitor's ground wire was a key part in replacing the control unit. Don't forget to do this. Good luck in your woes.
I had the same problem like them the robertshaw ds-845,will light up and the flame will go out in about 5 sec.the the red light will blink.
didn't have to spend any money !!
just needs to be dusted.took the glass panel off,then took the logs off and vacuumed the black flame tubes.
every thing works fine now.try it.nooopy
good luck
my ignitor would click for a long time then when it lit it would go off and come back on. now when i flip the light switch to start it , Nothing. checked for power to switch
and its good. only thing i can think its the ignitor? in reading all the posts maybe its the robert shaw module, they wanted 285.00 for service call. RIDICULES!!
i have the ds-845 r-shaw. when is the red supposed to blink?
any suggestions
Mike
I learned this from a qualified tech but it cost me $80. I had vacuumed to no avail. The unit went out after about 5 minutes, whether it was just the pilot or full flame. The tech took out a can of compressed air, removed the logs, and blew out the area around the pilot and the burners. The problem was fixed for about 8 months. It started happening again and the compressed air again solved the problem for $3.25.
has anyone tried cleaning the flame sensor at the pilot.............and ru7of9 is right with the compressed air, i have made killer money cleaning pilots with compressed air or even a straw that i blow through......youve got to have a good flame so the flame sensor will ground thru the pilot tubing by way of the carbon in the flame
It's true that using compressed air will often solve a dirty pilot problem for a time. But the correct way to clean a pilot involves disassembling the pilot and cleaning the pilot orifice and the pilot burner.
The common Robertshaw pilot burner has an inner and outer section of the pilot burner if you look into it. The outer section brings in combustion air for the aerated pilot and the inner ring directs the mixed air/gas up to the top of the burner where the flame burns.
The common bell shaped Robertshaw pilot orifice can't be reliably cleaned and often requires replacement. It has a square hole for an orifice and often it can't be cleaned properly.
It's not unusual for the outer section to collect dirt and dust which will prevent proper operation of the pilot. Using a pipe cleaner to clean the burner is the best method I've found, although pipe cleaners are a little bulkier for that than I would prefer.
Just blowing out a burner with compressed air is poor workmanship in my opinion. Sorry guys.
Perhaps adequate for DIYers, but not for a repairman who is getting paid to do a quality job.
That's my opinion, anyway.
ok,,,,if you used canned air and the pilot still curls up then i would remove the pilot head and properly clean the orfice,,,,but if i used canned air and the pilot is straight and strong then i would not remove the pilot.....the pilot flame will tell on itself. i dont believe it has nothing to do with poor workmanship if you know what to look for...and this is my opinion, canned air works 95% of the time and i have had loyal customers to go 3 seasons without a problem and having to remind them that its recommended that their logs be serviced once a year.....i also carry a pilot pump which means i used canned air first, if that dont work i use a pilot pump and if that dont work then i remove the piece and use an orfice reamer to clean the obstruction....9 times out of 10 its only dust....so guys, if the canned air dont work then here you go
please help
i have the heatilator
would not come on at light switch. nothing. igniter wont even click.
obviously i didnt want to pay the 295 service fee
i have checked all the power to unit, good.
replaced ds845 with new one, replaced igniter , new one
still nothing. no light on the ds845 either.
checked again with meter, getting juice.
is there some kind of safety switch or something?
does the fireplace have to be all back together before getting the igniter to at least click?
please help!
I had this problem a year ago. It was the wall switch. Did you check this?
Currently I am having a problem with the ignition. The pilot light comes on but the igniter continues to click. Any suggestions? I cleaned the system and the pilot flame is a solid flame making contact with the sensor. I am thinking it is the darned controller (RS SP845). The green light stays on during this process. I already replaced this controller a year ago. Are there any suggestions for a replacement to the RS SP845? (i.e. more reliable unit)
TIA
I have a Heatilator fireplace. It is about 9 years old but only used once or twice about 7 years ago. I tried to use it this week, the ignition/pilot works but there is no flame of the burner. I even tried a lighter on the burner bed, but nothing happened. Not sure where to start to find the cause and to fix it. I read some of the posts and none is similar to the situation I have - need help here and thanks first.
I have a similar problem to some others. When I flick the wall switch to turn on my fireplace, the ignitor starts clicking and the flame lights up but the ignitor just keeps clicking. It stays lit. There is no light (red or green) lighting on the DS 845 module.
Please help, I too don't have dollars to waste.
Thanks, Dean
I have a Heatilator GBST36 NAT standing pilot unit. I switch on, lights fine, stays on for 30 seconds and shuts down flame and pilot. Have relit pilot many times which is quick and fine, flame and burner is strong and good color so know ignitor, orifice and gas flow is good. Manual troubleshooter states likely a bad thermocouple or thermopile. Is there a way to know before throwing money at those parts? Might an emory cleaning of those parts resolve the issue if the parts are not totally shot? If doing one of the two parts is it wise to just replace both due to normal age and wear and tear?
Thanks,
Tim
I have had the same problem for over 5+ years. I have just decided to fix the situation. I used a qualified heatilator 5 yeras ago they simply replaced the ignitor. That worked for about a week.
In any case I switch the fire on. I get gas, I get sparks, I get ignition. I continue to get sparks across the igniter, 10 seconds the control box turns off the gas.
The problem is this, I believe. The control box is not getting a signal back to say that the fire is on by way of the heat sensor or the control box is not responding to the feedback. In any case I looked at my old black control box and it is a piece of trash electronics. How Heatilator allowed this trash to be approved in their products is crazy. The quality is amazingly poor.
Certainly a common thread by everyone on the lack of quality workmanship in these.
So that is my concern - how does one know what to start with on replacement parts? Thermocouple or thermopile? Since ignition is occurring it would seem a faulty thermocouple is the culprit in shutting down the burner and pilot thinking the flame did not ignite and is not burning. But I do not know this product so hesitate to guess and waste money shot gun style. Anyone out there know? Thanks in advance from me and all the baffled posters.
Tim
Experienced similar problem(s). Our fireplace has a wall switch and when flipped on, ignitor would light gas flow, unit would run for 5 - 7 seconds then go out. Confirmed good gas flow. (Orifice cleaning is not an issue with my fireplace.) Ignitor had strong spark, but would keep firing after successful ignition. Then 3-5-7 seconds later, controls turned off gas flow, flame went out.
Checked schematic on DS845. Focused on Ignitor circuit. (I would upload schematic if I could, not sure do on this sight. Schematic was in materials we received with fireplace.)
Discovered corroded connector at base of ignitor. Cut wire back 1/2 and replaced with new crimped fitting connector. Made sure it was retightened with solid electrical connection. (Make sure your wall switch is off or disconnect at AC)
Other side of circuit goes back to SENSOR connector on DS845. Cleaned that connection and reattached.
Reconnected power and flipped the wall switch, works great. Hope this helps.
I took off my Ignitor and the wire attached to it just came off it. re attach the wire to the Ignitor. I had the same problem as you did when I turn on the fireplace..
Please don't piggyback on another thread -- it's confusing. describe you problem in detail on a new thread and we'll see if we can be of help.
So how the hell does this GNDC36E come apart?
I have a no light off issue. Unit power up, fires the starter, but no flame. Verified gas is going into the unit. That's as far as we've gotten due to the face that no documentation seems to exist for this damned thing. Can anyone help?
Tags: fireplace, problem, wall switch, control unit, dont work, found that, have Heatilator, ignitor would, outer section, pilot burner
