Genie Garage opener problem
I have a 9 year old Genie (G5000). The last few days it has not been working right. It starts to open and then stops and the same problem when it is closing. The saftey system seem to be working, the red light is on and that wouldn't affect the door opening (I Think)? I am not sure about the capacitor if it was bad i assume that the door would not do anything so i think that is ok...Any suggestions on what i can check. Thanks Check the up and down travel and/or the up and down force. Sometimes with age and weather changes, you need to adjust the dials. Turning these dials should be very small adjustments and one at a time. Then you're suppose to check to see how the door reacts each adjustment. When the door opens and then stops, does it reverse and close again ? Does the door sound like it's binding anywhere ?...sounds of struggle ?...I just dry lubed my rollers and hinges with graphite powder that were squeaking like a haunted house. Now they're whisper quiet. Also, with the sensor eyes, believe it or not, something as small as a spiderweb swaying in the breeze can cause them to trip. This morning the door open fine...pushed the wall switch and it open. It wouldn't close. It would start to close then stop. After about 5-10 minutes of pushing and releasing the switch (door moving down a few inches at a time) I got it closed. Then I tried to open it again and it acted the same way trying to open the door. (it started to open then stopped.) I pushed the button again and it would open a little more. Even when i held the button it wouldn't open all the way. I have adjusted the adjustment tension screw a half turn at a time but have gotten the same results. I also have taken apart the sensor eyes and have completly clean them and the red light is on. The door is balanced and isn't binding on anything. Everything is lubed and tighted down. We have had some below freezing 15 deg weather at night when the problem began a few days ago. Not sure what else to check... Thanks for responding... I am assuming that you have worked the door manually from your earlier post, so... Take your trusty can of WD-40 (as much as I hate the stuff) and a few rags. The rags will be distroyed in the process, so don't use anything that you want to keep. Spray the screw liberally, while removing the grease that drips out, with the rags. Run the motor a few times with the door disconnected and in the down position. Try to get as much grease out as possible. After you feel that you've done all you can, put some new grease on the screw (we use stuff designed for that application, but I suppose a little synthetic axle grease or white lithium would work). Run the motor a few times with the carriage engaged to work the new lubricant into the screw channel. What I've found is that after 7-10 years that old grease gets full of dirt, dust, and other garbage. It doesn't cause any real problems until the temperature drops and that stuff starts to coagulate. That's when the motor interperates the increased resistance as a kids tricycle and goes into safety mode. BTW... don't park under the rail for 2-3 days after doing this, unless you want a racing stripe down the middle of that shiny new buggie! I will clean out the grease from the screw today. I have opened the door manually and it works fine. Its balance and all the rollers are lubed. I have also tried to operate the opener without the door attached and still have the same problem. If the old grease is the problem would it affect the door going in both the up and down direction. I thought that the extra resistence would only affect the door going down but i have no idea how the unit is design to work. Thanks for the help.. The unit is designed with the contact safety precautions in both directions. The photocells (if your unit has them) only functions to reverse the door on it's way down. So, yea, the sensitivity works on the way up and down. I cleaned the old grease out of the scew yesterday and it does operate smoother. The old grease was build up at both ends of the carriage but i still have the same problem. It will move about a foot or so then it returns to the open postion. If I hold the button down it sometimes will completly open or close. I also have had the motor protection breaker trip as i try to get the door fully open or closed by pushing the button 4/5 times. The capacitor gets real warm? Also sometimes if i help lift the door with my hand (lightly) as i push the button it will open and close fully but the door is balanced and lubed. I do have the photo cells. I have tried to adjust the tension screw 1/2 turn per try but sometimes the door seems to travel farther but not always.. I plan to try again today... again thanks for the help and ideas... It sounds like you may be fighting a loosing battle. If the unit is tripping the breaker, and the cap is getting hot to the touch, that motor may be going bad. It sounds like that thing is pulling way too many amps. I hate to say it, but it may be time . yeah i think your right i may have to replace it. This afternoon I have been able to get it to go up by pressing and holding the button... Going down it goes about half way and starts to go back up using the hold method. I have been having the same problem with my garage door opener. The door started going up and down consistently and then the capacitor blew up. I don't know if the capacitor was bad or the problem made the capacitor fail. Chad i have been using the opener by pressing and hold the button. It opens all the way up most of the time. If not it stops about 3/4 open then i just press the button again. Going down it stop time works but mostly it take a few stops/starts before closing. Weather been warm so i am waiting to see what it does on a cold day. Cleaning the grease out from the old screw help some but that wasn't the real problem. I been thinking about taking the scew drive apart from the main unit and clean that out but haven't done it yet. I am hoping something will just blow so i will know what it is. A capacitor is pretty cheap fix. Hello, I have a similar problem with my Genie g5000. The door opens properly but doesn't want to close. It starts to close, then opens up again. I called Genie and they said that it might be a sensors problem. I replaced the sensors with no luck. In the mean time, I think I have screwed up the system. Now the door doesn't want to open at all using the remote. I don't see the red and green LEDs glowing on these sensors. I went back to the old sensors that used to work and the LED's doesn't work. There was a latch that I need to disconnect for these sensors. If I adjust the latch, the LEDs come for sometime and as soon as I remove my hand, they go off. The door works fine with the push button both open and close. I am not sure if its the latch that is bad, or if there is a problem with the wiring or the circuit board. Any help is really appreciated. I don't want to replace it as it still got some juice in it because it opens and closes normally using the push button. Thanks, Steve. Hi guys, I am here not to help, but looking for help. I have G5000 in my carage and 3 days ago while my wife was closing the door it just stopped. She has closed it manually and when I got back from work I had to deal with it. Here is the situation. When hitting either the remote or the wall button, the motor was spinning both directions for about 2 seconds and that was it. But the screw wasn't rotating at all. The first day I played with it, I noticed that before doing the spin, the clutch base was moving 1/2 towards the motor, thus got separated from the reluctor ring. When I moved that clutch base back right next to the reluctor ring and push the remote button, the door kind of tried to move (up or down), but before even doing a motion of a foot - and click and the clutch base moved towards the motor again and the door stopped. That gave me a clue to check if any retaining ring was loose and off the groove and yesterday I found out that the retaining ring right in front of the motor (between the 2 light bulbs, where the screw starts) was misplaced. I made it click back in its place and thought this was it. I put the motor back together expecting everything to work properly, but now I have no rotation at all. I can hear how the motor is trying for a secong to rotate both directions, but there is no movement neither at the back of it, not at the front of it (the screw). The door is not moving at all. The troubleshooting said there could be some motor protector open and that I needed to wait about 20 minutes for automatic reset, but nothing ever happened. The red sensor lights are on. I've tried operating the door both with and without the carriage engeged. Can anybody give me an idea about what my problem might be? Reading the thread so far, somebody had mentioned an issue with the capacitor. What's its role? Appreciate your time and help. One quick thought. Did you disconnect the power cord (remove it from the receptacle) for twenty minutes? If not, the overload protection has not reset. Thanks for replying. I submitted a reply couple of minutes ago, but the forum is not showing it. So, here I go again. To answer your question, yes I tried all kinds of combinations waiting for 20 and more minutes both with the power cord plugged and unplugged. Didn't work. Anyway, I bought a Chamberlain belt type opener from The Home Depot - $194. The set includes an outside wall mounted wireless keypad and a motion sensor for the lights in the garage. Thought it was a good deal. I put it together, but still haven't mounted it on the ceiling. Wasn't sure how durable these belt type openers are, but the reviews for this model were very positive. Plus it's got lifetime warranty on the motor and 3 years on the belt. Wish me luck! I'll probably trash the old Genie opener. You should be fine with the new one. I had a similar model and it was very nice. Quiet and almost no maintenance. I still don't like the exposed belts and cable...seems like its just a chain drive w/o the chain.
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