Pintos are the canonical choice for refried beans.
Refried beans are the ultimate in Mexican comfort food. They fill precisely the same niche in Mexican cuisine that mashed potatoes do in home-style American cooking: bland, soft, slightly savory and a worthy complement to anything put alongside them. Even the lard they're fried in has its counterpart in the butter and cream used for really good potatoes. While acceptable refried beans are available from a can, they are easily made at home with the right beans and a few other ingredients.
Pinto Beans
The bean of choice for refrying in northern Mexico is the pinto bean. It is medium in size and medium brown in color, speckled with lighter and darker flecks. Dried beans are the traditional starting point. It is best to use the freshest available, as they will cook more quickly and are less likely to remain tough or impart an off flavor to the dish. The beans may be soaked overnight or simply cooked in a pot with a few aromatic ingredients, such as onions or garlic, until tender.
Black Beans
While pinto beans are widely popular throughout Mexico, the south often favors black beans. Also called "turtle beans," these have a distinct flavor and vividly dark color. They have become a signature ingredient in the American Southwest, as well as in Oaxaca and other areas in southern Mexico. They are smaller and much darker than pinto beans, and make a dramatic contrast when served with brightly colored salsas or fresh vegetables.
Substitutions
Although they will not provide the authentic flavor, many other beans may be substituted when pinto beans are not available. Varieties with thin skins are preferable. The skins of varieties like kidney beans, for example, are too prominent in a dish of refried beans. Romano beans resemble pintos, and are an acceptable surrogate. Cranberry beans and other red-skinned varieties may be used on their own, or to add a more authentic color to a pale-skinned bean.
Canned Beans
Purists may cringe at the thought, but canned beans are a handy shortcut. They are cooked to a softer texture than homemade beans, which detracts somewhat from the finished dish, but they require only a quick rinse before using. While not as authentic as refried beans made from scratch, this is a good alternative to buying canned refried beans.
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