I want to build a trailer and I see at the place where a friend works has a pile of mobile home axles out front for $75 each, some have brakes. They dont look to bad, they are rusty from laying outside. Is this a fair price?
Probably, I sold a set of 2 MH axles off the MH I had in fla over 20 yrs ago. The guy gave me $100 and he took them off. Be sure to pick up each side of the axle and spin the hub/drum to make sure it rolls free.
Michael, I am unsure if this holds true for where you are but in most of Canada you are not permitted to use axles that are designed for mobile home use on anything other than a mobile home. The problem is that they are designed for pretty much a single use. Not sure what style wheels your mobile axles use but here they are a ring wheel and clamp fastening much like a semi wheel. These wheels are a dead giveaway and will pulled of the road by an inspector. Also, here anyway, the tires used for mobile transport are labeled as such. The proper tire will be marked Transport if it is ok. The problem with these ring and clamp wheels are that they are easy to not get on straight and will quickly loosen and fall off. I have a pair of MH braking axles but can make them legal by installing a set of drums that will fit an 8 bolt pattern truck rim. I also have a stockpile of steel to make a 7 1/2' x 20' tilting car hauler and will build it if I can only stop spending so much time on these forums. Curious to know if these axles are legal where you are.
Originally Posted by GregH Curious to know if these axles are legal where you are. Im not sure if they are legal or not, everybody and their brother has a trailer with them on it. One of my dads freinds has a 18ft double axle car hauler with 2 MH axles. Most days I could probably see 10 trailers with them on the road. These are the ring wheel axles, I have 5 brand new tires on rims but no axles. I was going to try to sell or trade the tires off to my dads friend with the car hauler but thought maybe I would build my own trailer.
Ya, you may be ok where you are. Our laws tend to me more strict than most places. Here any trailer with a registered gross weight over 2000 lbs have to have brakes and any trailer over 10,000 lbs must have an annual safety inspection. You also have to keep in mind that if you have to buy all your steel and small bits you might find it cheaper to buy a good used trailer. With steel prices the way they are you may get sticker shock when you add up what it will cost you. Exactly what do you plan to build?
I have an old tandem trailer that I use to transport my tractor and occasionally a car or other items. It has drop axles but they use the same rim that mobile home axles do. It is correct that you aren't supposed to use MH tires but my 'legal' tires got bald and weather checked so I put on 4 MH tires/rims that I didn't have to pay for.......ssshhhhhh, don't tell anyone THis trailer required registration and tag when I bought it in fla but when I moved to tenn. there is no such requirement unless it's being pulled by a commercial vehicle.
Here we have government auto insurance so when we register a vehicle or trailer, liability insurance is included. Does it mean that if you do not require registration in Tenn. does it also mean it is uninsured for liability?
Your insurance automatically covers trailer liability unless your policy specifies otherwise. The way I understand my AARP hartford policy, it is covered provided I'm not using the trailer for business. Obviously full coverage requires additional premium.
I live in michigan and you can build a trailer take it to a grain elevator and pay $4 and get a paper with your weight and go get your license plate. You dont need any inspection for it. In indiana I think you need to have it inspected if you build one. Id like to build a 18ft car hauler like my dads friend has. Ive been watching for almost 2 years and cant find a used one. It wouldnt get used alot otherwise Id look into a better trailer. I was going to price new steel and sometimes the scrap yards will have good stuff like channel iron and they will sell it. I think mobile home axles are rated at 3000lb each. The trailer my dads friend has we had about 10,000lbs on it. I think my grandma has 10 axles under her double wide, I should sneek some of those out some day.
Originally Posted by michaeljp86 I think mobile home axles are rated at 3000lb each. More than that they are rated over 7500 LBS per axle depending if soild axle or hollow axle my freind have soild axle that can take much as 12 K per axle but he consering about 7 K per axle. Merci,Marc
Tags: mobile, home, axles, mobile home, home axles, build trailer, dads friend, that they, 3000lb each, also have, axles legal, axles legal where, axles rated, axles rated 3000lb
I am installing Brazilian cherry and am looking for a matching color to stain my moldings. I could'nt get the same wood for the accessories and so I have to get an unfinished wood and stain it to the natural color of BC wood. I would need T-Moldings, Reducers and Probably shoe moldings.... I got one opinion that I could use 'Red Oak' stain which would get close in color to the BC color.... Can someone look into this and help ???? Thanks a lot.........sun1974
Brazilian Cherry has as wide range of colors. Matching a color may be a challenge because of this. There will tend to be no two boards of exactly the same color. Too, Brazilian Cherry tends to darken as it ages and is exposed to light. Some boards will darken to almost a blood red color. Not all boards are the same color. What is important is that you note that trim pieces, even in the same wood species, tend not to be an exact match. Trim pieces should complement the floor. There are flooring companies that offer Brazilian Cherry trim pieces such as T-molds reducers. Finding baseboards shoe mold may be a little more challenging. You can do an online search for these. One option is to take several pieces of Brazilian Cherry to your local paint shop and a few pieces of oak and try to have some stains mixed to complement the flooring. Because red oak has such a close graining pattern, which Brazilian Cherry does not, you might also want to experiment with stains on maple. Cherry stain on maple appears to be very complementary to Brazilian Cherry.
Sun1974, I had the same problem as you. I found the widest variety and lowest cost of Brazilian Cherry trim through this web site: http://www.onlinefloorstore.com/store/mfgline/?id=174 Not sure if you need finished or unfinished. The prices quoted are for unfinished pieces, but I called them direct (on the contact us link) and got pre-finished pieces for about 50% more depending on the piece. They had to contact the manufacurer in Canada to get an exact quote and the minimum number of pieces I had to buy. This was still significantly cheaper than other web sites and they had all the different types of pieces I needed. The pre-finished pieces also matched my pre-finished floor so I didn't have to worry about color mismatch, especially as the Brazillian Cherry darkens with exposure.
Check the DIY home page for an advertisement and link to one of DIY's sponsors www.fastfloors.com You can also do additional online searches for other companies who offer hardwood flooring trim pieces.
Tags: stain, color, match, brazilian, cherry, Brazilian Cherry, trim pieces, Brazilian Cherry, Brazilian Cherry trim, Cherry trim, pre-finished pieces, same color, same wood
My house has two flat rubber roofs. Some of the seems have come apart and where they go over the side of the roof and fasten to the wall are puckered. The rubber also looks a little dry and I was told there are some small holes (though I can't see any). I can't really afford to replace it so I want to fix it. I had planned to 1) unfasten the rubber and fasten it back down with the correct fasteners. 2) re-glue down the seems 3) coat the roof with some material that will seal and coat the rubber to make it last a long time again Can anyone point me to a product to coat the roof with? I am looking at stuff like http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...-30lpage=none But it doesn't say it is specifically for rubber roofs. There is also some other stuff that is like $84.00 for 100sq feet. Isn't there something less expensive but will work and last? Thank you Mike
EPDM single-ply roofing membrane.......(if in fact it is a black rubber, inner-tube looking material) Seams can be cleaned with a splice wash (or unleaded gas and a rag), and overlaid with self adhesive flashing. Available at a Roofing Supplier...not HD or Lowes. Adhesives are not used much anymore for seaming. The self adhesive flashings and seam tapes are quicker and more reliable. The edge of the roof should be anchored with a metal edge and stripped in with the same flashing material. Look at an EPDM edge detail on Firestone Building Materials website for an visual of what it should look like. Coatings at the big box stores are not intended for this purpose. There are many manufacturers that make coatings for single-plys. Try looking up Hydro-Stop or Topcoat Good Luck!
You'll need a rubber primer/cleaner, splice glue, and a roll {or more} of cured or uncured rubber, available in widths of 4in. 6in. 8in. etc. up to at least 12inches. The most important step is prepping the surface which is what the primer/cleaner is for. After priming/cleaning, apply splice glue to both sides {tape and roof}. After applying the tape, push out the bubbles. It's a good idea to caulk all finished seams with the rubber lap-caulk they offer. I wouldn't necessarily wory about the puckering at the wall, unless it's actually falling away from the wall, in which case it should be fastened using a term bar which is nothing more than a specialy made piece of aluminum that fastens through the rubber, through the wall, with cualking on the top edge to seal it. I'm not a big fan of special coatings which can tend to be a big waste of money given the ultimate benefits.
I Agree that Prep is the most important step... Most current manuf. specs are centered around new seaming technology in which glue is not used. Primers, tapes and self adhering flashings are more effective than the old method of gluing seams. And MUCH faster. Certain manufacturers won't warranty glued seams anymore. Edge sealant or lap sealants have more limited uses as well. Seam tapes should extent beyound the lap 1/4 or so and this serves the same purpose as the lap sealant. Not that any warranty would be available in this case anyway.... Coatings have come a long way in the last few years as well. I would venture a guess that 70% are most likely akin to snake oil, however there are good ones out there as well.
I was hoping not to have to replace the rubber roof. I was pointed to these products, first put on: http://www.koolseal.com/product_deta...duct_id=34-700 then put on: http://www.koolseal.com/product_deta...duct_id=63-900 What do you thing of these as a roll on protection to seal any small holes I can't see and make the roof look better? Mike
Mike, The previous discussions have been reguarding process to strip-in failing seams and flashings. Once those are cleaned up ..then you could apply a coating. Coatings won't help failing seams. The coating you refered to is designed primarily for concrete or metal. Power washing and priming would be required with any coating..and MAYBE it will stick. Coatings should be considered a short-term repair at best. Is the cost of these extensive repairs really worth it? Is it more cost effective to perform extensive repairs for a short lived fix. Or spend a little more to replace it. $4 a foot to repair and coat dosent make sense if it only will cost $5 a foot to replace it....something to think about. Stripping in the seams may be all that is needed as I have seen 20+yr old EPDM systems that the main field of the sheet is still in good shape, just the details and seams need to be reworked.
I don't think ANY manufacturer is going to guarantee ANY material used in repairs...in the real world. It's hard enough to get them to respond even to a job problem when a whole new roof was installed.
Ok, I will do a better examination of the roof. If the rubber looks good I will just seam it as talked about. If the rubber looks like it has had it I will probably go ahead and replace. Now one more question. Can I put a new rubber roof over an old one, like putting old shingles over an existing layer? Thanks Mike
I wouldn't recommend that. The rubber needs to be either fully adhered, or balasted {covered weith gravel or rocks}. I don't know if it's even allowed to go over. I've only pulled off a few rubber roofs over the years in order to re roof them. They were all super easy to remove. One thing to consider is if the rubber is currently glued down to a sub-board , like a wood fiber or perlite, it may pull up the skin of the board in places. Or if it's deteriorated from leaking, it may need to have sections or pieces replaced. That type of stuff is relatively cheap. If it's allowed to go over in some fashion, the manufacturer should state that somewhere in their literature.
I forgot something........you'd mentioned about someone spotting holes in the rubber, and that you could'nt see them. Tiny holes or slits in rubber can be hard to see. I've examined a few rubber roofs carefully {I thought} only to find a hole or a slit after I look at it a second time.
sure fire method to locate pin-holes... wet the roof with a hose, then take a large floor squeege, and squeege the water off... if small dots of water keep re-appearing behind the squeege....those are your pin-holes. Good Luck!
My parents have a Goulds 200 amp panel, and I need a 15 amp breaker for it. I'v never heard of this brand before. Do I need a Goulds specific breaker for this panel or will any others fit? Thank you.
I'll do some more checking, but I know I've seen lots of Goulds breakers and IIRC, they were mixed in with Challengers and other ITE-type breakers. You should be able to use Murray or Seimens breakers from Home Depot, but I'll try to verify that. Barring that, just take your Goulds breaker there and put it side by side to one and look at the bottoms.
BUT, as a caveat, here is Seimens' official stand on this: A number of manufacturers produce circuit breakers that are physically interchangeable. These are sometimes referred to as interchangeable circuit breakers and users, at times, have interpreted the fact that these circuit breakers are physically interchangeable, to be an indication that it is acceptable to use these Listed circuit breakers interchangeably in a panelboard. This is incorrect. The physical interchangeability is not an indication that they are electrically interchangeable. This must be verified by test. Unless the circuit breaker is marked on the panelboard as being acceptable or it is Classified as being acceptable, the circuit breakers have not been tested in the panelboards and should not be used. These physically interchangeable circuit breakers exist for a number of reasons but primarily for the interchangeability that may exist if they are tested. There are many manufacturers of panelboards and other products that do not manufacture circuit breakers. The verification of the acceptability of a Listed circuit breaker is done by the panelboard manufacturer and it is to their advantage to have a panel design that can be tested for use with circuit breakers from more than one manufacturer. Likewise it may be to the circuit breaker manufacturer’s advantage to have an interchangeable circuit breaker to participate in this OEM market. Circuit breaker manufacturers produce circuit breakers for use in a variety of products and any panelboard manufacturer may use any circuit breaker in his panelboard as long as he tests the combination(s) to UL 67.
In short; unless it is listed (UL) for use in the panel, it is not legal to use a breaker in any given panel. ==================================== Square D is one manufacturer that does not list its breakers for use in any other panel. Seimans (I believe) does test their breakers for use in other manufacturers panels BUT unless they are listed as accaptable, they are not to be used as such.
Gould Inc. owned the ITE brand from 1976 untill they sold it to Siemens - Allis in 1984,over the years they were marked with a number of brand names. I-T-E Circuit Breaker Company I-T-E Imperial Corp. Gould / I-T-E Siemans-Allis I-T-E Electrical Products Siemens I-T-E Electrical Products Siemens They had 2 lines of residental / light commercial panels. EQ Loadcenters Pushmatic Pushmatics had a # of different names such as Bulldog Electric and Electricenter, Siemens discontinued the Pushmatic line only offering replacement pushmatic circuit breakers. BTW, Goulds makes water pumps, a totally differant company. Do not use a circuit breaker that fits your panel unless it is UL Classified to fit your panel, the breaker should have a list of specific panel catalog #s its been tested to fit.
The inspection sticker says its been there sine 83, so most likley it's not a pushmatic. I hope.. Lowes didn't have any Gould's breakers? Do I have to order them online?
Mac072 summed it up very well. You must look at the panel, and it should have a label saying something like use type QO breakers or use tpe CH etc. etc. Whatever type or types are listed, then you go find a breaker which is listed as that type. It may very well be that the Murray he mentioned will be a compatible type, but that's what you have to look for.
actually any given panel manufacturer will not list compatible breakers from other manufacturers. You would need to consult the breaker manufacturers information to see if it is UL listed to be used in the panel you have. It is either Cutler-Hammer or Seimans that does go to the effort of having appropriate breakers tested and listed to fit other manuf. panels. They even make breakers that are listed for Square D panel. I don;t remember which it is for sure. One of the supply houses I deal with has a chart that lists all the breakers they make that are able to be used in another manuf. panel.
You can purchase Gould breakers on ebay. These are used breakers that have been pulled after a panel changeout. I have purchased Zinsco breakers on ebay for my panel with no problems.
it says use only Gould's ITE, QP, QPF, QPH, QPHF, and HCP breakers only. Would any of these avalibe at the local supply house??
what says that? the panel? if so, read one of my previous posts that deal with that. but anyway, it seems Seimans has purchased ITE and from what little I saw, offers breakers that are intended to be used in an ITE panel. here is a link to a site that sells breakers for you. I do not know if any of the big box stores carry the correct breakers. You might call and ask. Other than that?????? btw: not all Lowes, or other big box stores carry the same stock as another sstoer of the same name. No idea why but that is what it is.
If you use a Siemens breaker you will be safe as they are the successor manufacturer, I have not seen any paperwork allowing a Murray in a ITE panel even though Siemens rebranded ITE breakers as Murray when they bought the line. BTW those breakers are not that expensive new, its certainly better new then unknown stuff from Ebay.
Ok, I've taken the advice of everyone on here and am comparing several places for my new carpet. First, I went to both Home Depot and Lowes. Without getting into a discussion on the big boxes, I was happy to find that both supplied some key data on the back of the carpet: weight, twist, density, material. I learned, mostly through the help of this forum, read those key numbers. It really helps me judge the quality of the carpet. So, when I finally went to a well known local carpet store I wasn't surprised to find a better sales experience, but I WAS surprised to find no helpful data on their carpet samples. I looked at each one and found only face weight and their own rating for high traffic, etc, using a scale of 1 to 5. So, feeling so educated (thanks everyone!) I asked the salesperson about the density and twist numbers and he gave me a vauge answer, pointing me to the 1 to 5 scale rating instead. I feel I can trust this place, and I think they have good quality carpet. But I feel like I can't spend this much money, or know what I'm really buying, without knowing: - material - face weight - density - twist Am I overreacting or just playing it smart? Are they trying to be tricky when they dont show the numbers? SHould I be wary of them?
The local stores may have the same or better carpet. Because they rely on the local salesmen/peddlers/glad-handers, they rarely have the information or use it if they have it. The big bad boxes have semi-trained sales assocites, but the manufacturers recognize this and provide a wide range of technical data and back-up, support and assistance to make the associates more effective. They buy more carpet and get better support and make the information readily available. If you ask the right questions to a local store, they should be able to provide the answers you need. If they don't have it, then they may be selling ends and obsolete products that may not offer complete support.
Carpet ratings 1 to 5 are used by some manufacturers. The higher the number, the longer the wearability. Learn more here: http://www.carpet-rug.org/residentia...nce-rating.cfm If the sales person can not provide you with the information you need, then he or she can call the manufacturer to get that info for you. A good sales person should know what the carpet material is. Density: This refers to the amount of fiber that is in any given area of the face of the carpet. Carpet that is dense will wear better than carpet that is less dense. You can visually test this by folding a sample of carpet in half (so the backing of each half is touching) - then look at the fiber along the fold. A carpet that shows more of the backing will be less dense than one that reveals less of the backing. Face Weight: This term also refers to the amount of fiber (per square yard) that is in the face of the carpet (total weight less the weight of the backing). However, this is different than density because tall, less dense tufts may have the same face weight as short, dense tufts. Short, dense tufts will be more resistant to wear and matting. Twist: The number of times the fiber is wound around itself. You can count the twist be looking closely at a tuft of fiber and counting the number of twists you see. A twist of 4 or more is good for medium to high traffic areas. http://www.carpet-discounts.com/constructioni.html
Thanks for this feedback. Confirms what I was thinking. And come to think of it, this guy wasn't their main floor salesperson. So, I'll go back and ask them for the actual numbers. If they seem like they're hiding them, I have my answer. But if they provide the numbers, then I can compare apples to apples. Thanks!!
That is just it with most all flooring. They don't want you to be able to compare apples to apples. Most go for the low price before they even think about quality or durability. Just make the sale on the lower price, and live with the fires that get started when expectations are not met.
Yes, you are correct. I just came back from my 2nd trip to the local store. Again, very nice sales people. So, when I again asked about the specs they were very vague. Before I thought the person just didnt know. But now I'm pretty sure they werent trying to swindle me, they just don't want to give them to me. AND---neither do the manufacters! Here's what happened: - I was upfront and said in order for me to compare apples to apples I needed to see the specs, specifically, face weight, twist and density. response, oh, well most of the samples dont have that information. Im like, I know, but can you get it for me? oh sure. But at the end, when I asked for it, she said I would probably have to get it from the manufacterer, they would have it. I'm like, fine, I'd rather check out their website while I'm at it. So I go to Shaw's website. nothing about these numbers ANYWHERE! so I call them directly. I get someone who says she could give me the numbers but I needed the exact style. Unfortunately I left my notes in the car, but I told her the one was Kathy Ireland collection, cut pile, and it was the Platium level. Should've been enough. Nope. Its almost like they didnt want me to know these. I check Mowhawks website and the list face weight only. So, in the end, I recevied prices from them and what looks to be really good carpet with the MFRs OWN rating scale on a 1-5 for durability (ex: high traffic). If I cant get the info I need to feel comfortable, I will wind up going to Home Depot or Lowes.
Originally Posted by bheron If I cant get the info I need to feel comfortable, I will wind up going to Home Depot or Lowes. That would be a bad choice! They are even less clueless and customer service is non-existent, before and especially after the sale. With those two, the cost of installation, is already added to the carpet sale price, they then offer you a bogus marketing scheme of the installation at an extra to low to be true price, to get you to bite. Most independent stores can beat the big boxes on material cost, if you can find an apples to apples choice.:moonface:
i would go with the local store..them being unable to produce the specs is most likely from them not having it or just not used to someone asking it. I would go with one that is the highest traffic rating that fits your budget. Most if installed correctly will have a manufactor warranty. Big box stores have install included in prices..thats how they can get away with 200 some odd dollar install for whole house.
Thanks for the input. I have more info from the MFRs. But first, to your points above, and service aside, isnt the best way to determine the quality of the actual carpet im buying from the Weight-Density-Twist numbers? I know there are many other things to consider in the overall purchase, but Im talking just the product. You have: - material (nylon, etc) - weight - twist - density There are things like backing, heat press or something like that. But, if I have the above 4 items, I should have a very, very good idea of the product itself, right? So, once I have that, then I can evaluate the prices, the other costs and finally the risks/benefits involved in going with the bog box or local installer. But I can't make that last choice without first purely comparing the product apples to apples. Thats where Im heading. Let me know if you disagree. Ok, with that said, I needed to call back the local installer to first get the style numbers for both the Shaw and Mowhawk brands. They were able to get that for me. So, next I went to the Shaw website for their contact info and was pleased to find they had a live chat. It worked. I quickly was able to get the specs for both styles numbers I gave them. Next, on to Mowhawk. I went to their site and dialed their number. First person I spoke with was nice but had to transfer me. Not, however, after first getting my full name, phone number, and zip code. Jeeze!! Upon getting transferred, ready for this, I'm told by another nice person that, oh, we can't give information out. WHAT!? yep, even though I had the style number, she said, we need your installer to call us (or fax us) with the number and then we'll release that info to them. Im sorry but there's no way I'm buying a Mowhawk carpet. My purchase comes down to both quality and convenience - finding the right mix. people like to bash the big boxes and say they provide bad service and it will be a headache in the end. but here's a rundown of my experience with all of them: 1) Home depot: - first trip to store checked out samples - briefly interacted with salesperson - told about specials - wrote down specs for all carpets i was interested in - wrote down other costs for installation, removal, padding 2) Lowes - exact same as Home Depot 3) Local Installer trip #1 - browsed samples with no specs on them, only a 1-5 rating by the MFR - nice interaction with the sales rep who followed me around - asked for specs but was told he didnt know them - wrote down prices for all carpets i was interested in - wrote down other costs for upgraded padding and removal of carpet - phone call to MFR #1 (Shaw) with no result - phone call to MFR #2 (Mohawk) with no result trip #2 to installer a week or so later when I had time - again, nice interaction - asked for specs and was told again to go to MFR - wrote down exact make and model names - phone call #3 to MFR (Shaw) and learn I need a style number - phone call #4 to installer to get numbers (about 5 mins) - phone call #5 to MFR (Shaw) and finally received info - phone call #6 to MFR (Mowhawk) and learn in the end, I can't get the info So, in the end: Big Box: 1 trip each Installer: a total of 2 trips over a week and a half, and 6 different phone calls in the end to give me about 80% of the information I need to make my decision! Now, I understand I will probably get better service and less hassle from the Installer whom I can meet ahead of time vs. the one from the Big Box who will show up and disappear. So far, the installer has been a hassle up front. Is it worth it? Im not sure it is! Finally I will compare pricess, apples to apples of the carpet I have information on.
Shaw's helpline wouldn't know the carpet based on collection or warranty package. Those are both exclusives of Carpet One, not Shaw. (Kathy Ireland and platinum) And anyone who works at Carpet One is not given the technical information you are requesting. They would have to call in to their rep to get it. As far as Shaw's reference scale- 1 through 5. It is not completely trustable. They do not make a single 1 or 2 star product according to their scale. There garbage carpets start at 3 stars. Also the have long, fat cable carpets made of polyester with a 5 star rating. What that star system is showing you is warranty- nothing more. What is it exactly you are comparing?
Shaw's helpline wouldn't know the carpet based on collection or warranty package. Those are both exclusives of Carpet One, not Shaw. (Kathy Ireland and platinum) And anyone who works at Carpet One is not given the technical information you are requesting. They would have to call in to their rep to get it. - Thats amazing. HOw do people buy something they dont know everything about? Its like buying a car w/out knowing what kind of engine or gas mileage it has. I guess something matter to some people more than others. Thanks for the input on their scale. I would never trust any scale that comes from the party selling the product anyway. What is it exactly you are comparing? - do you mean what actual carpet brand and syles?
Originally Posted by Carpets Done Wright That would be a bad choice! They are even less clueless and customer service is non-existent, before and especially after the sale. With those two, the cost of installation, is already added to the carpet sale price, they then offer you a bogus marketing scheme of the installation at an extra to low to be true price, to get you to bite. That's a little derogatory, isn't it? I happened to work at HD, in the flooring department, and if someone had an issue, we would deal with it until they are satisfied. If they had a specific technical question, I would do my best to answer it, and if I couldn't, I would call the manuacturer directly with the customer sitting right there. To say that they are clueless is being a bit ignorant. Often times, a customer would grab anyone in Orange, even if they didn't even work in the department and expect them to know everything. How could someone expect an employee to know everything about the 100,000 products in the store..... I have been in many many tile/carpet stores and their employees did not know about their products, so it's not a big box issue. Also, the prices for our carpet did not go up when we and Lowes went to the $199 whole house install. Of course they will market the installations to get people to bite, how else would you get customers and profit?
Yes what carpet are you looking at buying? Your 4 things (fiber,density,face weight,twist) tell the most about a carpet. They are the simplest for anyone to understand and they are quantitative. But there are intangables that affect each of those. Different types of nylons, construction of the nylon, shape of the nylon, how the nylon was dyed, quality control of the mill, how it was bulked, how long was the twist set and at what temperature, etc... There are many more. Also each style of carpet changes those numbers. A plush carpet's face weight will be higher than the same quality frieze. Where as a frieze will have a higher twist. Both may last the same length of time. One may look newer longer just based on the type of style. A B+ frieze will look newer longer than most A+ plush carpets. For this factor alone, it is helpful to find someone who knows how carpets act and what you expect from them to match you to what you want and need. You can find all the best numbers and then get a carpet that shows vacuum marks that drive you crazy. What good did comparing numbers do you? I have had several engineers that do this. They are technical guys and think they can choose their carpet better than someone that is experienced with carpet if they know those 4 magic numbers. I'll give one other example. I used to have a Milliken brand carpet in my living room. nylon, 24oz face weight, high density(very short nap but can't remember #) 4 twists. I would put that carpet up against almost any carpet out there. But the numbers suck. How could that carpet be any good? Because the mill that makes it has incredible quality control. Only use top of the line everything and is known for their long lasting commercial carpets. It's been down for 10+ years and looks brand new and i have 4 boys. So now that i've shot down the entire thoery of how your buying carpet what do are you supposed to take from this? Your not doing it wrong. You are trying to take the information that is available and apply it to your purchase the best way any consumer can. My point is if you only rely on those things you'll ignore someone that may be giving you information that is more important becasue your hung up on them not giving you numbers.
Akron - sounds like you put it perfectly. All I have is the numbers to go on since the sales support at all places is average, at best. Although I'll detail my recent lowes experience below. But to date, I havent encountered anyone that will supply that level of knowledge that you just gave. Makes complete sense that there are intangibles that matter just as much! The good thing is that for the most part im comparing similar carpets. I'm looking at plush and textured carpets. no frieze, no berber, no velvet, no patterned type carpets. Also, only looking at nylon. But, as you state, there are SO many nylons out there, it makes it tough. So, for the most part, the numbers do help me out. As far as your point on the big boxes, I completely agree. I have decided to go with the big box simply b/c of selection, availability of information, and price. The Lowes $199 special is very good it seems. And b/c of this forum, I've been able to ask the right questions to uncover any hidden costs. So far with the Lowes deal I will have to pay $7 extra per step, and approx $2.30 lf for binding of the stair runner. Also, I grilled them hard on their estimate, saying it will be very difficult to get me to pay anything that is over the estimate that should've been caught at the time of the est. I worked with a great salesperson over the weekend at Lowes. I felt she was being very honest with me. She said that the estimate is the true cost for all intents and purposes. I've found that the 2 Home Depots in my area are a little limited in their info and their sales staff. Just luck of the draw, time of the year, market, etc that its working that way for me. Lowes has had the best prices, deals, and service to date so I will most likely purchase through them. Although if I can get more details on a few of the HD carpets that lacked the info, I may change my mind. As Im the techy type, like you mention, here's the list of carpets I have looked at, across 4 stores. most I have numbers for: Beaulieu of America Oceans Edge (6364) Bradford Farm Kathy Ireland - Platinum ka147 Mowhawk Alladin Seaview (8001) Mowhawk Alladin Haley Court East (0108d) Mowhawk Tactesse BCF Mowhawk Wear-dated soft touch Mowhawk SOS Bangor Mowhawk Lisse Nylon hypo Mowhawk SOS Lincolnwood Mowhawk n/a Mowhawk Tactesse BCF Mowhawk SOS Daphne Mowhawk Tactesse BCF Mowhawk Elite Royalty Pikes Peak (973) Shaw Constantinople (748hd) Shaw Sunridge II (251d) Shaw Ritz (243hd) Shaw Backstage (722hd) Shaw Trifecta 2 (741gd) Simi Valley q1942 Stainmaster Rare Gem Stainmaster Tessera S Stainmaster Kings Palace Stainmaster Dixie - Tower Bridge Stainmaster Hazelbrook (4663) Stainmaster Monique (5813) Stainmaster Florence (0113d) Stainmaster Dreamy (6468) Stainmaster Buy Stainmaster Tactesse Nylon Stevens Taj Mahal (5170) Stevens Tallamore (5263) Stevens Mt. McKinley (5358)
I see your list of carpets and deem that you are an engineer. bheron, i wish i could spend 10 minutes with you in any store to help. We could easily narrow that mess down to 3 carpets in less than 5 minutes. Over 1/2 your list is incomplete information that no one would be able to find a carpet from. I'm assuming you have a more complete list somewhere else. But from what i do recognize, you have a broad spectrum of qualities and finished looks. (some of those are delustered yarns vs. highly reflective) This tells me you have not decided what you want your new carpet to look like overall. If you have decided on the big box (i still disagree for many reasons but understand, especially with your experience with the retailers you visited) i would recommend one of the Stainmaster carpets. Stainmaster is one of the few companies that will welcome a call from a consumer about a problem with their carpet. They have the best warranties in the business and stand behind them with very little complications. If their is a mill defect in your carpet, stainmaster will still handle the claim and settle up with the mill. If their is an installation problem... sorry your screwed. You should have known better than to go to a big box for top of the line installation. Obvious installation errors would need to go through the store.
Thanks Akron! Yes, I have more info but wasnt sure if I tried to paste it in here what it would look like. FOr all of those carpets I have face weight, density, twist. I didnt capture the type of nylon, which I wish I had done. thats' great info about stainmaster. something i cant get anywhere. on your recommendation, I will go to one more local installer that I think is close to my work. see what kind of experience I get.
Buy your carpet anywhere but only trust your investment to a CFI Certified Installer!!! Try www.CFIinstallers.com and in the Find an Installer pane, type in your zipcode. Call several and the installers with the higher level of certification, usually will cost you more.
If I go Home Depot or Lowes, they pick the installer. I guess they may or may not be CFI certified. I will have to ask. If I like this next local place I may go with them. I will ask them too.
Last question Bheron, Where do you live? City and State.
King of Prussia, PA (yes, thats really the town!)
Ok, today's update (this really is turning into some sort of obsession for me) I visited another local retail store (non big box). I have to say, as I pulled up I felt like, ah, this is what everyone's talking about. the place was big, clean, filled with sales people. good feeling. when i walked in it was obvious I came to a good place. lots of product and people. however..... as soon as I meet my first sales person, and browse the first selection of carpet, I quickly realized it wasn't going to be any different than the other local place I visited. this place seemed to have top quality carpet. and this is all they do - carpet. but, once again, little to no information was supplied and the guy just assumed i would pick any of the carpets without any info!! most of the carpet, not all, had price per sf info listed. but, lift up the sample and minimal info. none of the 3 numbers im looking for. i could find out the material and that was it. i told the salesperson i was interested in a quality carpet, made out of nylon, something basic in a cut pile. he immediately steered me over to the section on sale.The brand is Karistan which sounds like a top quality, and looked it too. When I ask him about the 3 magic numbers and make it clear I need something like that to base a decision on, he only says, oh we dont have that b/c we're not a big box. so i ask him to help me decide between all the different prices of carpet - ie: why is this one $4/sf and this one $6/sf. well, its basically the amount of material used, pretty much. Oooookay. then......i ask him how their pricing works, in other words, what's included in these per/sf prices? well, to get that, he needed to do a full estimate for me. he needed my name, address, phone number. fine, i gave him that and all of the room SFs that I had with me this time. After 5 mins he comes back with a full blown quote to do one room. still, when i ask how it works, like is it $199 per room for install, etc, is pading included or is that a SF basis, steps, etc, i get a very vauge, well, it all depends on the quote. i can do more quotes for you, i can quote you the whole house if you want. well! duh. thats what Im trying to get at!! so, not only can i get zero info on the carpet except the make and model, they're not divulging anything on how they price the deals!!! geez. again, nice showroom, what seemed to be quality carpet,and nice salesperson. but PLEASE, how frustrating it is for an educated shopper. its like they just want to live in the past when the internet didnt exist and the shopper was so less equipped. im starting to feel like this industry is a big shag, I mean sham I'm on hold right now with Karistan and have been for 15 mins. Im pretty sure if i get someone they wont give me the numbers. again, i know the numbers arent everything, but its the one sure way i can compare this local place with the deals Im getting at the big box. Im hoping to get the specs of the carpet i was quoted on, find some comparable carpets or even the same one at the big box, and compare the overall price and service expected. but, once again, im feeling helpless with the local places. once again Im leaning towards big box, and i wont feel one bit bad for the local place if it goes out of business b/c of the big boxes. thanks for reading if you've been crazy enough to follow along this long! EDIT: just got off the phone with the contact at Karistan. Very nice woman who answered and tried to help. but i quickly learned that the place i went to is selling through a private label, which i guess basically means their own secret name. so, in the end, there's NO way to find out exactly what makes up this carpet except for the material and how it feels to the touch! One more dead end!
bheron.... Mmmm ok, first off, no carpet guy in any way shape or form...clear? ARE WE CLEAR??? Crystal? lol Have you investigated the programs where you buy online directly from the mill and they provide a list of installers? I think they are still out there, I know they were a while back in VA. Not trying to add anything to your calculations. I saw in another post (or maybe here) where CDR said he buys most of his stuff online. Theres no stigma with that. You pay shipping whether its retail or wholesale, one way or another. Just throwing it out there....
gunguy - LOL! had to read that a few times. to your quesiton, thats a great point. i never thought of that option b/c i guess i didnt think it existed. that would probably be a great option if i could find one. i could decide on my product and then contact a certified installer which i know are in my area! i'll have to look around....
OK- new carpet brand in the mix. Karastan. NOTHING AT HOME DEPOT WILL COMPARE TO KARASTAN. I don't care how good the numbers are, what they are, or if you ever get them. Karistan is better. As far as the salespeople at most retail stores- you're running into probably the majority norm. To really put it out there - there is only one personality type that truly cares about the technicals and you are it. And there is not a lot of you so salespeople aren't usually trained in the technicals to the degree you people expect. The salespeople that are going to know this kind of stuff are the technical junkies themselves. And there are not a lot of us out there either. They are trained on look, feel, price, warranty, keeping-it-simple. Who buys a floor based on technicals?! Engineers, accountants and cheap husbands.
Yep, I have to say and I hope you don't take this wrong, but hope you take it as being funny. If you were my client, I would have fired you by now. Your way overthinking this and wasting a lot of peoples time.
I have to say, actually, I couldnt agree more! I guess I just like to get to the bottom of things. I like to figure out what and why. I'm also not just a techy but I'm in the e-commerce marketing business, so i study people's buying habits. Well, at the very least, I can ay I've learned a heck of a lot no matter what happens. Thank you all for your help. I'll be sure to post one final time with my actual purchase and experience (if anyone cares).
are you kidding?! As much time as i've spent on this thread i gotta know how the story ends! CDW - You couldn't have said it any better than that.
I'm back everyone. I thought, as promised, that I'd follow on on the outcome of my project. In short, I'm now enjoying a great new carpet installed in my home. Here's what happened for anyone that's still interested: - I had Lowes come out, measure my place, and give me an estimate. The old man who came out was grouchy, slow, and actually very rude. I was about to ask him to leave if he kept up the comments. Lowes charges $35 for the visit that's applied to your order should you use them. - I decided, at the last second, to have the local installer come out and do the same. Had to do it on a night when my wife wasnt around b/c she wouldve KILLED me for bringing in another person to measure our house. - In the end I am so very glad I did that. WHile the Lowes carpet and installation price was well below market and a great deal, the old man measured out 1,800 sf of carpet needed which, obviously affects the end price. - The owner of the local installer came out last minute, after hours. He's a guru that promises to use every bit of waste carpet he can. He came up with 1,300 SF of carpet! Well, that dramatic difference in SF was the difference. - I was able to install some great carpet - how could I not evaluate the numbers. - Lowes was going to install a mowhawk stainmaster carpet with a 46 ounce weight, 4.7 twist and 2,366 density. Very nice carpet. - The local installer, for the same price essentially, installed a Shaw Spacious Living II 78 ounce, 5.1 twist, 3,995 density carpet! Oh and did I mention that the Lowes guy called me a total of 12 times over a few weeks to keep following up on my decision? The local installer got the carpet in and installed in a very reasonable timeframe at the exact price the quoted me at. There are more details but hopefully this feedback is enough to say thank you all for your help! My obsessing and all of your feedback - and patience - resulted in me getting a quality product and installation! Thanks all!
Could PM me the name of the local installer you used? I live in the Lower Merion Township and don't trust the big box places. Were you happy with the results so far after the installation?
Hey, no problem. I'll PM you. so far so good - we dont have much traffic, just two adults, a dog and a 1 year old that just started walking. im more impressed with the actual carpet - held up great so far (8 months) and seems impossible to permanently stain I think I put this in my post, but the they beat out the big box is b/c of they knew what they were doing. the old grumpy guy sent by lowes measured 1800 SF of carpet. the owner of the local place measured himself and came out with 1300 and had hardly zero waste carpet. So, lowes had a lower $/Sf and installation cost, but it didnt matter when they tried to sell me 500 SF of carpet I didnt need! I will use this place again when we finish some other rooms.
Just wanted to chime in on this thread, as I'm going through the same exact torture when trying to buy carpet (incidentally, I'm also an engineer). Making an educated decision in the carpet business seems to be an impossibility. The industry makes it impossible to compare carpet from one store to another. From what I can tell, the only places where it’s relatively easy to get some technical specifications on any carpet is at Home Depot or Lowe’s. I have had zero luck getting technical specs outside of these store, doesn’t matter if it’s Empire, Carpet One, or the two local shops I tried. The stores always claim that they would have to call the mill. Really, does it change that frequently? Why don’t they have that information on hand already? None of the local guys get back to me with the proper info either, but phone calls to see if I’m ready to order are in no short supply. One store showed me “Painter’s Pallet” by Mohawk. Google provided some wholesale prices from carpet express, but nothing in terms of specs. As an engineer, I’m finding myself hung up on knowing the “specs.” Sure, some might not find it that important, but I don’t intend to buy any carpet when I don’t have that info. Asking me to feel the difference - that's just not going to happen. Like the initiator of this thread, I'm using the same big 3 (twist, face weight, density) and I do realize that there is more to a carpet than that (as was also pointed out in this thread). That’s why my experience has been frustrating so far. I need just over 1000 sq ft installed and have all the furniture out and have already done the take-up and prep (as I knew I needed to do some sub-floor repairs). Rolling the dice with a HD or Lowe’s installer is not something I care to do and in addition I know I’ll be paying an arm and a leg for labor and the likely over estimation of goods. It’s plain silly to think that either store will only pay an installer $199 to carpet 1000 sq ft. The true install cost is buried in the price of the carpet. Aside from one 15' room, my install is simple (very basic, three seams, existing tacks, no steps, no furniture, no take-up) I would like to limit the cost of install to the basic average of $4 sq yard (that’s the research I’ve done anyways). However, HD and Lowe’s won’t break out their hidden labor costs, and the small companies don’t like to pony up carpet specs. It’s a lose, lose for the customer. I'll also make one last comment on an experience I had with over estimation. I had Empire come out and provide an estimate a month or so ago. They number the fellow called in to get price info for was 1400 sq ft. As noted above, my figures came to 1000, which includes roll size and 10% for scrap! So why the big difference? Well, for starters, Empire only had 12' rolls. So I believe they doubled the square footage to account for the 3' run that would have to pair up to that roll. That matches up with the single seam he was describing (instead of T seams which I would expect for maximizing use of the the 12' roll). Either way, it pays to know some of the technicalities of lay out carpet and also to do your own measurements! Hopefully, I'll be settling on a final decision this week... it's a good thing I'm single though, living on sub-floor for a month would be difficult otherwise :)
Great feedback. Also good to know I'm not the only one out there. In the end, my determination paid off and a year later I'm very happy with my carpet. One thing to add I dont know if I did before - the reason I was told that its so hard to determine the specs is that most retailers private label the names. So, Mowhawk may manufacture a product and call it Product A but then the store will label it Painter’s Pallet. They claim its difficult to link it back but I dont buy it. To me its simple - if they provided that data then it takes away their value to the customer. An antiquated model that no longer works for all of us.
Same thing applies to mattresses. Companies are notorious for labeling the same exact mattress with 15 different series so it's impossible to price match competitors.
Bheron - I'm going through exactly what you're going through, although you are about 1 month ahead of me. (oh, and I do know KOP, PA, as I grew up in Berwyn, and got lost in the Mall when I was a kid). We want to lay about 1,100 sq. feet in a Family/Living, MBR and L-shaped hallway. One spec. I did not see discussed in this thread was a carpet's pattern match - the little colorations in a sample that actually form a pattern in large areas. The way I understand it, the smaller a pattern match (expressed in _ inches x _ inches), the more tightly a carpet can be layed out on a standard 10' roll, with less overage. At HD, my wife and I picked out a Stainmaster carpet with a 36x36 pattern, which (understandably) leads to more overage, due to the pattern match loss. We rented the sample to take back to our house to compare with existing flooring,walls, etc., and decided that ,although the sample was nice, the pattern was possibly too garish for our tastes. Other pressing matters with the new home have put a hold on our research, but we are ready to get back into it. We're intending to lay the new carpet over existing ceramic tile, and would like to save the nice tile for future owners, so we're looking at adhesive (Chemrex or PAM method) for the tack strip installation (no nails here).This is presenting its own set of problems, as it'll have to be manual stretching, as powerkickers will potentially damage the tile. I'll follow this thread to see where you end up....oh, I'm an engineer as well, so I have a tendency to over-analize everything (which to me makes sense for this big of an investment).
Thank you BHeron you are a carpet buying hero. Thousands try to wade through this quagmire of carpet choices and options every day.
Tags: local, specs, local installer, apples apples, phone call, this thread, would have, face weight, face weight, have that, local place
Ours stopped cooling. Fan works, thermostat works, air flows, its just not cooling. A technician came by. Said it was the compressor. Tried to resucitate it (the unit is Carrier, about 20 yrs old!) but nothing worked He is going to replace it (just the outside unit, not the coil inside the house, just the box that has the compressor, the fan and I assume the gas (I am an engineer, but dont know much about air conditioners, so excuse my technical description of the components) He is quoting $2,000 for a new unit and all the labor to take the old one out and put the new one in and connect it to all the tubes Is that fair? I assume part depends on the model he would install, and I assume it will be a cheaper Trane than a more expensive Trane We live in a suburb of Chicago (if that changes the rates), about 15 miles west of the city thanks in advance for your help
Hi, Not an a/c guy but know enough to tell you the freon is most likely different. If the outside unit is be changed the coil and lineset should be changed. Freons dont mix and may lead to issues. If they tell you they want to clean it out with some cleaner crude find someone else. As a matter of fact I would find someone else anyway because he is doing you an injustice. I would spend the extra mony and change the airhandler also and take advantage of all rebates available. Get someone in there that knows what they are doing. HVAC guys will chime in but IMO this is the right thing to do. Mike NJ
$2000 is about right for a (box) condenser (3 ton) in Chicago.
run away from this guy! not replacing indoor coil is very bad get some more pricing.
In fairness to my technician, I asked for a solution that would be as economical as possible. I asked if replacing the compressor, and just the compressor, was feasible. He said that trying to find an old compressor and fit it was an option, but not a good one because the unit is old and the patched up compressor could fail at any time, so he did not recommend it. When the answer was no, it appeared that the next item in cost was to replace the box/condenser. He said the best way to do it would be to replace the condenser and the coil inside the house as well, but if budget wasnt there, replacing just the compressor was an option. So I asked for a new condenser, getting us to where we are today. I basically have no idea for whether the price of a new condenser, plus some parts plus the labor to do the exchange should add up to $2000 or not
If he can find an R22 outside unit that will match the inside coil..then it might be the cheapest solution...for now. What about when that 20 y/o coil fails in 2 yrs and then they have to cobble together something that may or may not work? If they are still having the Federal tax rebates (there may also be some available through your state and local utilities), I would have to seriously recommend you go the complete replacement route. Even if a loan was required, the payoff will come at tax time and through lower bills. Don't let anyone boost the actual price just because you will be getting those rebates though. If it's $2000 for the compressor unit...then you should be able to get a complete replacement for $4-5K. New lineset absolutely required! They should also do a calculation (manual J?) to account for any improvements in air sealing, insulation or higher efficiency windows to determine the size unit required. No expert....just IMHO
I live in Naperville, IL so I am not far from you. My compressor went out on us on July 11th (valves seized). The price I was quoted for a new 4 ton compressor (the box on the outside with the compressor, fan, and condenser) was $1500 and it would cost $700 for labor which came out to $2200, close to your estimate. My technician HIGHLY recommended that the ENTIRE system be changed (compressor, condenser, and evaporator coil) for the best efficiency. I spent an additional $89 for a service call to another well known company (to make sure my compressor was the culprit to my home not getting any cooling) and they gave me the same ball park figure to change the compressor unit on the outside. They too recommended that the entire system be changed. I followed their advice and changed the entire system. So if you can afford it, change your entire AC unit. I paid cash but many Chicago area companies offer 48 month 0% financing, although you will be paying more for the AC system than the cash price. Hope this helps.
More data (as I find it out) He is suggesting a TRANE 2TTB3 (which best I can tell is a commercial unit). My old carrier was 2.5 ton, and he says the new trane is also 2.5 ton. Any big differences between a Trane commercial unit and a Trane home unit? In general when I hear people say commercial I associate it with industrial strength (so the item would last longer, can handle more stress/load) but probably also means less polished cosmetically, maybe less engineered for size or sound (e.g., residential owners may worry more about size and noise). In some cases they are the same unit but residential owners pay more (without reason)
Hi again. Just fair warning. Your just changing the outside unit and changing freon correct? Your going from what freon to what freon? If its not done correctly,(clean and flush the lineset and coil) and most times its not done properly you will burn up the new units in a few months. What kind of warranty are you getting? Here is a good term my old boss used to say : Pay now or pay later, but your going to pay I state the above only on my years of working with and around the HVAC pros with in the companys I have worked for. Seems like your set in your course of action. Good luck. Mike NJ
dont worry about the inside unit. they make r-22 dry charged units that he will be able to pick up. your only gonna get a 13 SEER because thats all they make, but thats a pretty solid price for a 3 ton unit. just make sure you get atleast a 1 yr warranty on labor
trane does not make r22 dry charged units................. If it is a new unit then it will be r-410a you need to find this info out as previously stated.
No warranty on miss match equipment.
Tags: much, fair, price, change, unit, outside unit, charged units, coil inside, coil inside house, commercial unit
need some help here - and don't want to pay my local Heatilator dealer the $150 trip charge + parts to look at this. I have a Heatilator 36' gas fireplace - model GCDC36E When I turn on the wall switch, the ignition works, the fire starts, looks great. 2 seconds later it shuts off. Happens every time. (worked last week!) When I lift the bottom flap to look inside at the wiring, the ignition module has a flashing red light after it shuts off. According to my manual, I have a RobertShaw DS845 ignition module. Any idea what the problem is? What does that red light mean?
I have the exact same problem with a heatilator direct vent (also 9 years old) , with a Robert Shaw DS845 Controller. I have paid the $150 and it is still not fixed. The service people insisted that it was the ignitor which was replaced. That did not solve the problem. Although they said the controller checked out fine they now want to replace it for $125 which I am very reluctant to do. The burner lights and shuts off after about 3 seconds with a click, the LED light on the controller flashes continuously until power is shut off. Do you think the controller should be replaced? Post moved into this topic.
I Have The Exact Same Problem....went Thru The Same So-called Fixes....new Ignitor And New Module .....still Does The Same Thing....click Power Switch, The Ignitor Works, Gas Lites Up, And Then Shuts Down...recycles Itself Several Times...yep, The Lite On The Module Is Flashing....does Anybody In This World Have An Answer For The Problem....the Experts Where I Bought The Fire Place And The Manufacturer Heatilator Have Flunked At Their Jobs....please, Need Answers...thanks
is this a direct spark ignition unit or standing pilot? i may be able to help but i cant find info on the unit online.
this unit is a DSI and is known for this phenomenon. You need a qualified tech to service it. However, the key is in the grounding of the igniter . Have the tech pull the igniter, polish its contact with the chassis then cut off the ground wire and crimp on a new ring terminal on a spot polished up shiney. If you have 110 vac with the correct polarity, 24 volt ac at the transformer and all the wiring good, you're just getting started. Check the venting, burner, gas pressures, etc. Not a DIY situation. If the want the Fp to work properly, pay a qualified tech. Otherwise, leave it off. Hearthman
I also have the same problem. :I have Heatilator GNBR36E Gas Fireplace. Robershaw DS-845 ignitor controller. The flame comes on and stays for only 15 seconds then off for 30 seconds. It cycles for 3-4 times. Then everything is off, but red light is blinking on Robershaw DS-845. Heatilator must have too many problems, they don't even recognize this model number manufactured 9 years ago. My tenants are convinced it was connected to furnace thermostat, they have been using it in winter months when thermostat is set on heat. I called three local dealers. They wanted $150 to $300 for service call. They all said fireplace had nothing to do with furnace and my problem could be air buble in gas line or bad relay or ??. I also laughed at my tenant's suggestion, but tried out to save dealer service call. I turned the furnace on increased setting to higher than room temp and lighted fireplace..It worked. Don't know how, and don't know why. After 5 minutes I turned furnace off. Fireplace worked correctly that day. I know this is not the solution. I am sure there is something wrong with Robershaw DS-845. Can some one help??
I was experiencing the same problem and I was able to fix it. At first, I thought it might be the controller which is the dreaded Robertshaw DS-845 previously mentioned. The LED light was flashing continuously and I was unable to find anything on the web that gave me an explanation of the continuous flashing. I polished the connectors plugged them back in per the suggestions posted here. I vacuumed out all the dust, made sure the junction box had power. Considered that it might be the transformer... but since the fireplace actually turned on, that didn't make sense. It seems like there are so many possible points of failure with one of these units. One clue was the flame produced was pretty weak and had a lot of blue. That's an indication that it's not getting enough gas. Also, when the burner lit up, it was only on one side and not the entire burner. Finally removed the controller box out of desperation. Followed the thick white wire up to the igniter. Had to remove the logs the burner unit from the top in order to access. What I found was that the top of the white wire had a connector (ring) that was secured in place by a screw. It had come loose/corroded and was hanging by a thread. There was also some putty and a gasket ring that were pretty deteriorated. But just by stripping the wire and securing it into place, the whole burner unit lit back up and stayed on! It's been working perfectly Anyway, you might try checking out the white wire that connects up to the igniter. Make sure you disconnect from power source turn off the gas first. Also, be very careful when removing the log set. There are specific instructions on do this I found in the Heatilator user manual. There is a porcelain piece attached to the igniter and it is fragile. I was able to fix my Heatilator and it didn't cost a penny!! Hope this helps.
My problem was that after my fireplace lit ( Heatilator, Inc. MODEL: GNDC36E NAT ), the spark ignitor would continue to spark while the flame was already on. The control unit couldn't detect the presence of the flame and would shut the gas off thinking there was only gas pouring into the fireplace without a flame. When initially troubleshooting the problem, I wasn't able to hear the spark ignitor running after the fireplace was lit. I could only hear it after I removed the glass window. Once that was done, I could hear it continue to spark, then the controller, Yes-the dreaded $180.00 Robertshaw MODEL # DS845 NL-1-4, SERIAL # 100-00832-13, would shut down the flame and the continuous red LED would flash. I'd cycle the power and get it to repeat this failure everytime with minimal variances. I searched all over the internet for help on a DIY basis and found this Posting from Vickyaase. I read the below posting from Vickyaase and thought this might be a maintenance based problem. I followed Vickyaase's instructions exactly and found that my ignitor ground was also extremely corroded. So in hopes, I cleaned it up, cut the wire back to clean copper and crimped on a new connector and sanded down the metal base. To my dismay, it did the same exact problem as before. No change. So I broke down and said,Let's try replacing the controller. So, I looked up the part number and found the new upgraded control unit, IGM780502, bought it, and $180.00 dollars later, my fireplace worked perfectly. No problems. The new controller was able to sense the flame presence and stop the ignitor from continuing to spark. I believe there are a few problems with this fireplace and the key to troubleshooting my fireplace was when I found that my spark ignitor was continuing to spark after the flame ignited. I also believe that cleaning the ignitor's ground wire was a key part in replacing the control unit. Don't forget to do this. Good luck in your woes.
I had the same problem like them the robertshaw ds-845,will light up and the flame will go out in about 5 sec.the the red light will blink. didn't have to spend any money !! just needs to be dusted.took the glass panel off,then took the logs off and vacuumed the black flame tubes. every thing works fine now.try it.nooopy good luck
my ignitor would click for a long time then when it lit it would go off and come back on. now when i flip the light switch to start it , Nothing. checked for power to switch and its good. only thing i can think its the ignitor? in reading all the posts maybe its the robert shaw module, they wanted 285.00 for service call. RIDICULES!! i have the ds-845 r-shaw. when is the red supposed to blink? any suggestions Mike
I learned this from a qualified tech but it cost me $80. I had vacuumed to no avail. The unit went out after about 5 minutes, whether it was just the pilot or full flame. The tech took out a can of compressed air, removed the logs, and blew out the area around the pilot and the burners. The problem was fixed for about 8 months. It started happening again and the compressed air again solved the problem for $3.25.
has anyone tried cleaning the flame sensor at the pilot.............and ru7of9 is right with the compressed air, i have made killer money cleaning pilots with compressed air or even a straw that i blow through......youve got to have a good flame so the flame sensor will ground thru the pilot tubing by way of the carbon in the flame
It's true that using compressed air will often solve a dirty pilot problem for a time. But the correct way to clean a pilot involves disassembling the pilot and cleaning the pilot orifice and the pilot burner. The common Robertshaw pilot burner has an inner and outer section of the pilot burner if you look into it. The outer section brings in combustion air for the aerated pilot and the inner ring directs the mixed air/gas up to the top of the burner where the flame burns. The common bell shaped Robertshaw pilot orifice can't be reliably cleaned and often requires replacement. It has a square hole for an orifice and often it can't be cleaned properly. It's not unusual for the outer section to collect dirt and dust which will prevent proper operation of the pilot. Using a pipe cleaner to clean the burner is the best method I've found, although pipe cleaners are a little bulkier for that than I would prefer. Just blowing out a burner with compressed air is poor workmanship in my opinion. Sorry guys. Perhaps adequate for DIYers, but not for a repairman who is getting paid to do a quality job. That's my opinion, anyway.
ok,,,,if you used canned air and the pilot still curls up then i would remove the pilot head and properly clean the orfice,,,,but if i used canned air and the pilot is straight and strong then i would not remove the pilot.....the pilot flame will tell on itself. i dont believe it has nothing to do with poor workmanship if you know what to look for...and this is my opinion, canned air works 95% of the time and i have had loyal customers to go 3 seasons without a problem and having to remind them that its recommended that their logs be serviced once a year.....i also carry a pilot pump which means i used canned air first, if that dont work i use a pilot pump and if that dont work then i remove the piece and use an orfice reamer to clean the obstruction....9 times out of 10 its only dust....so guys, if the canned air dont work then here you go
please help i have the heatilator would not come on at light switch. nothing. igniter wont even click. obviously i didnt want to pay the 295 service fee i have checked all the power to unit, good. replaced ds845 with new one, replaced igniter , new one still nothing. no light on the ds845 either. checked again with meter, getting juice. is there some kind of safety switch or something? does the fireplace have to be all back together before getting the igniter to at least click? please help!
I had this problem a year ago. It was the wall switch. Did you check this? Currently I am having a problem with the ignition. The pilot light comes on but the igniter continues to click. Any suggestions? I cleaned the system and the pilot flame is a solid flame making contact with the sensor. I am thinking it is the darned controller (RS SP845). The green light stays on during this process. I already replaced this controller a year ago. Are there any suggestions for a replacement to the RS SP845? (i.e. more reliable unit) TIA
I have a Heatilator fireplace. It is about 9 years old but only used once or twice about 7 years ago. I tried to use it this week, the ignition/pilot works but there is no flame of the burner. I even tried a lighter on the burner bed, but nothing happened. Not sure where to start to find the cause and to fix it. I read some of the posts and none is similar to the situation I have - need help here and thanks first.
I have a similar problem to some others. When I flick the wall switch to turn on my fireplace, the ignitor starts clicking and the flame lights up but the ignitor just keeps clicking. It stays lit. There is no light (red or green) lighting on the DS 845 module. Please help, I too don't have dollars to waste. Thanks, Dean
I have a Heatilator GBST36 NAT standing pilot unit. I switch on, lights fine, stays on for 30 seconds and shuts down flame and pilot. Have relit pilot many times which is quick and fine, flame and burner is strong and good color so know ignitor, orifice and gas flow is good. Manual troubleshooter states likely a bad thermocouple or thermopile. Is there a way to know before throwing money at those parts? Might an emory cleaning of those parts resolve the issue if the parts are not totally shot? If doing one of the two parts is it wise to just replace both due to normal age and wear and tear? Thanks, Tim
I have had the same problem for over 5+ years. I have just decided to fix the situation. I used a qualified heatilator 5 yeras ago they simply replaced the ignitor. That worked for about a week. In any case I switch the fire on. I get gas, I get sparks, I get ignition. I continue to get sparks across the igniter, 10 seconds the control box turns off the gas. The problem is this, I believe. The control box is not getting a signal back to say that the fire is on by way of the heat sensor or the control box is not responding to the feedback. In any case I looked at my old black control box and it is a piece of trash electronics. How Heatilator allowed this trash to be approved in their products is crazy. The quality is amazingly poor.
Certainly a common thread by everyone on the lack of quality workmanship in these. So that is my concern - how does one know what to start with on replacement parts? Thermocouple or thermopile? Since ignition is occurring it would seem a faulty thermocouple is the culprit in shutting down the burner and pilot thinking the flame did not ignite and is not burning. But I do not know this product so hesitate to guess and waste money shot gun style. Anyone out there know? Thanks in advance from me and all the baffled posters. Tim
Experienced similar problem(s). Our fireplace has a wall switch and when flipped on, ignitor would light gas flow, unit would run for 5 - 7 seconds then go out. Confirmed good gas flow. (Orifice cleaning is not an issue with my fireplace.) Ignitor had strong spark, but would keep firing after successful ignition. Then 3-5-7 seconds later, controls turned off gas flow, flame went out. Checked schematic on DS845. Focused on Ignitor circuit. (I would upload schematic if I could, not sure do on this sight. Schematic was in materials we received with fireplace.) Discovered corroded connector at base of ignitor. Cut wire back 1/2 and replaced with new crimped fitting connector. Made sure it was retightened with solid electrical connection. (Make sure your wall switch is off or disconnect at AC) Other side of circuit goes back to SENSOR connector on DS845. Cleaned that connection and reattached. Reconnected power and flipped the wall switch, works great. Hope this helps.
I took off my Ignitor and the wire attached to it just came off it. re attach the wire to the Ignitor. I had the same problem as you did when I turn on the fireplace..
Please don't piggyback on another thread -- it's confusing. describe you problem in detail on a new thread and we'll see if we can be of help.
So how the hell does this GNDC36E come apart? I have a no light off issue. Unit power up, fires the starter, but no flame. Verified gas is going into the unit. That's as far as we've gotten due to the face that no documentation seems to exist for this damned thing. Can anyone help?
Tags: fireplace, problem, wall switch, control unit, dont work, found that, have Heatilator, ignitor would, outer section, pilot burner
A friend gave me his old 8hp Craftsman chipper!!! I used it for a big job, and he told me the vibration was normal. Finally the feed chute literally vibrated off--the main mounting (pivot) bolt tore right through the sheet metal at the bottom and the whole chute dropped to the ground. I disassembled the clamshell and found one of the flinger sets on the impeller completely corroded in place. A little heat and some banging and it came free. I thought the vibration problem was solved but no luck. It vibrates just as much now as before, if not more. Any thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Check and see if any of the teeth are broken ,or the shafts that hold the teeth maybe bent.This can cause it to be out-of-balance.Or maybe the bearings themselfs are warn.Ether will cause the vibration that you describe.
Post back with the units' as well as engines' ID numbers please.
I agree with the above post in that it's out of balance. Does it have missing cutters? Missing bolts? Broken off pieces? Worn bearings? Less likely, but a bent rim on a sheave making the belt go bumpity bump? You have gotta look at all rotating parts to see what is not semetrical.
Very much appreciate the responses received. The unit is a Craftsman 8 HP, 3 Cutting Stage, Mulching and Bagging Chipper-Shredder, model no. 247.795861. The engine model no. is 190432-6117-01. The impeller is keyed (according to the parts diagram) on the end of the motor's crankshaft--no belts. A 3/8 bolt holds it in place. The impeller looks to be fabricated from about 3/16 inch sheet steel. The main rotating plate is, of course, round, and about 13 in diameter. Welded to the front of it are some shaped pieces that hold the 4 flail assemblies (of 3 flails each) on the outer circumference at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock. I can email a picture if desired. The shredder blade is In the center, just a piece of flat bar not quite 9 long by about 2 wide. The chipper blades are mounted near two cutouts in the backing plate for feeding material from the other side. I have tried to remove the impeller assembly first using a three-jaw puller and later a 7/16 bolt, both bearing against the end of the crankshaft. Even with lots of penetrating oil and heat from an oxy/acet torch it wouldn't move. Couldn't find any set screws or other mechanical fasteners that would prevent it from coming off, physically or on the parts diagram. My hope was that I could get it off for inspection, and maybe take it to a machine shop to have it dynamically balanced. I assume the one cylinder Briggs Stratton engine has a weighted flywheel of some kind, so that is another possible source of trouble, although it seems unlikely. One other fact of interest... The last time I started it I noticed a bolt missing in the vicinity of the carburetor. A puff of black smoke came out of the hole as I pulled the starter cord and the engine turned over. The bolt holds is part of the mounting for the tube that the air cleaner sits on, and it's threaded into the intake of the carburetor. I think this open hole was allowing more air to get to the engine and the engine was racing as a result. Without a tach I have no idea how fast, but it was too fast. I found another bolt and put it in, which helped reduce the speed a bit, but now I wonder if some of the other carburetor adjustments may have vibrated to excessive speed positions. It still seems to be running too fast. Maybe the vibration caused carburetor adjustments to move, which caused the engine to race, which increased the vibration even more, moving the carburetor adjustments even more, etc. So beyond solving any basic imbalance, I also need to make sure the carburetor is adjusted correctly. There is a governor assembly (a gear on the end of the camshaft and associated linkage to the throttle) but I don't understand how or when it regulates the fuel. It may also be deficient in some way. More than you asked for I'm sure, but once again your thought would be very much appreciated! I'm headed out of town for a week so responses from me will be delayed a bit. Thanks again- Kevin
While you are on the subject...I also have an 8hp Briggs (horizontal) on a White chipper. It vibrates as well, but nothing has fallen off yet, It starts easily, but will only stay running if I keep opening and closing the choke every 15-20 seconds or so. I'm thinking that the governor might be set wrong and maybe the carbsettings too. Any help is welcome.
I have the same chipper/shredder, the main problem with vibration is too light of a main flywheel(the round metal plate) that the chipper teeth are mounted onto. mine has vibrated stress cracks in most of the shredder housing parts. finally pulled the starter off of the motor trying to start it. all of the sheet metal is too light guage for what size motor and rating it is. work had a cub cadet chipper that was a 10 horse and we used the heck out of it, never had a stress crack because it had a heavier flywheel and heavier sheet metal on the shredder chute., also your flywheel is on a taper shaft and is likely just frozen to it. use a top quality puller and when you have it tight. tap on the top of the puller to loose the flywheel. don't hit to hard as that could damage your engine bearings. Murphy was an optimist
Tags: craftsman, chipper, vibration, carburetor adjustments, sheet metal, bolt holds, even more, parts diagram, pulled starter, that could
Tile seems more permanent, except that the tile that's there now is cracked in a couple of places. And moisture shouldn't harm tile. Will beadboard or other material for wainscoting hold up to the moisture and continue to look good? Can it be used on the walls where the tub/shower is?
Generally the enamel paint that is applied over the bead board is what gives the protection from moisture. Bead board should not be used as a tub surround!!
I was thinking of using a natural wood look, either with beadboard, which I just discovered online, or with strips of wood. If I did that, there wouldn't be enamel paint, just varish or other coating. Is tile the only adequate tub surround? I did see floor tiles that look like wood but not the thin strips for wainscoting. I don't want to do something that starts to look awful or needs to be removed in a few years. I want an old fashioned country look, and wainscoting seems the prettiest way to get it.
Beadboard with several coats of polyurethane would probably hold up on the walls in a bathroom but not surrounding the shower. I would put ceramic/porcelain tiles around a tub or a fiberglass surround. I know it's common, but I would not put a natural stone around a tub as natural stone surfaces have some porosity to them.
Hate to rain on the parade but, I have to ditto the others. Nothing short of a material that is IMPERVIOUS to moisture should be used in the tub/shower area of a bathroom. No matter how good the protective coatings technology is today, paint has never liked moisture. Good luck. IMO, I would strongly suggest tile or bathfitters type...may not go with your planned decor but, you don't want the future nightmares of dealing with the wrong product on the walls, there.
As noted, poly or varnish will work fine for the bead board as long as it isn't installed in a wet area [tub surround] If you stain/poly the wood before installation it will save you a lot of time. Stain [or not] and apply 2 coats of poly sanding between coats. Then once the wood is installed, putty any nail holes that show, sand lightly and apply the final coat of poly.
I have beadboard (groove exposed) in two bathrooms in my weekend rental cabin, and it is holding up really well. A couple of coats of poly on it and it should look good for years to come. I'm not going to beat you up on the tile thingy, but consider it in the shower area.
Tags: beadboard, hold, coats poly, enamel paint, look good, natural stone, should used, shower area, that there
Our 3 speed fan pull chain broke with the short end of the chain in the housing of the switch. We bought a DUAL capacitor 3 speed fan switch, replaced it wire for wire as it was before. When we tested it, the fan had one speed with each click. Slow, slow, and slow. I figured I screwed something up so I played with the wiring. Anything I found on line did not have the same color wires that were in our fan. When I changed the configuration of the wires I then got a different speed. Medium on all three clicks. I was then able to rewire it this time I got fast, fast, and fast. Nothing was variable. I was stumped. One of the on line forums's post recommended just go buy a new fan. $100+ vs $3.00. The $100+ option for a new fan was now looking good. We went to home depot. I saw the display with the switches, and noticed there was another type of 3 speed fan switch. This one said it was a SINGLE capacitor. The store didn't have a fan that suited our needs, so being stubborn, or determined, I bought the new switch. I quickly connected it to the fan- black to L, purple to 1, brown to 2 and grey to 3. I tested the switch, and high- med- and low!! Done.
Welcome to the forums but the post is eleven years old. We welcome help with any of the current questions on the board.
Tags: switch, wiring, fast fast, forums post, speed switch
For years doctors have directed their patients to take HMG-CoA reductace inhibitors--or statins--at night. This evening dosage time is often inconvenient or physically unsettling for many who take the medication.
Significance
Statins are the No. 1 line of treatment for patients with coronary issues and offer substantial reductions in mortality rates.
Function
Statins are HMG-CoA reductace inhibitors and the most powerful drug available to lower LDL cholesterol.
Theories/Speculation
LDL enzymes are higher at night while may statins have half-lives (some as low as six hours) of effectiveness. Taking them at night inhibits the enzyme during its most active phase and may be more effective in lowering cholesterol.
Misconceptions
Not all statins have short pharmacodynamic properties and some may achieve equal LDL effects when taken in the morning.
Prevention/Solution
Statins such as Rosuvastatin and Atorvastatin have signficantly longer half-lives (19 and 14 hours) and may not be hindered by morning administration.
Considerations
Clinical studies done with simvastatin showed that evening administration resulted in a 21 percent reduction of LDL cholesterol while morning administration only garnered a 15 percent reduction.
Thrush is an oral infection caused by the yeast candida. Candida is normally found on the body, but when it grows out of control, it causes yeast infections like thrush. It is most common in infants and the elderly because of their weakened immune systems, but anyone can get it. While it is generally not serious, it can be uncomfortable and cause loss of appetite. White spots with a cottage cheese-like texture are the most recognizable symptom.
Medical Treatments
Typically, a doctor will treat thrush with a topical antifungal medicine applied directly to the white patches. In infants, a liquid form of nystatin may be used. Adults can be given a cream to apply to the patches or a lozenge. If topical treatments don't work, antifungal pills may be given.
Natural Remedies
Yogurt is the most common natural remedy for curing thrush. It can either be eaten or just applied to the infected area. Yogurt with acidophilus is most beneficial. Acidophilus can also be found on its own in capsule or liquid form. The herb wormwood, known for its anti-parasitic properties and ability to boost the immune system, can be taken daily for thrush, but it can take up to six weeks or longer to completely cure it. The recommended dose is three capsules twice a day for the first month and three capsules once a day until no longer needed. Diluted tea tree oil can be applied
Diet
While suffering from a bout of thrush, it is recommended that yeasty foods and refined carbohydrates be avoided. This includes white bread, rice, baked goods, and sugar. Overripe fruit should also be avoided due to the high levels of natural sugars found in them. Kiwi can be beneficial as it contains a large amount of immune-system boosting vitamin C. Garlic is a natural antifungal and has antibacterial properties.
Prevention
To prevent thrush in infants, ensure bottles, pacifiers, and anything else that enters the baby's mouth is sterilized. If breastfeeding, allow your nipples to air dry between feedings and apply a lanolin lotion. Breast milk contains natural antibiotics that may help prevent an infection. Adults need to maintain good oral hygiene and always replace their toothbrush after a thrush infection. Rinse mouth with water after taking any liquid antibiotics.
Considerations
A health care professional should be consulted before beginning to take any herb or supplement, especially if you are pregnant or nursing, have an ongoing medical condition such as heart or liver disease, or are attempting to treat an infant.
The Wayne-Dalton company makes automatic garage door openers that are activated by a remote control synced to a receiver connected to the garage door's motor. There are a number of reasons why the keychain-sized Wayne-Dalton garage door remote will suddenly cease to function. You can troubleshoot the Wayne-Dalton garage door remote to determine what is causing it to fail. You'll need a few supplies and tools to do the job yourself.
Instructions
1. Replace a dead battery by putting the Wayne-Dalton remote face down on a towel. Insert the tip of a flat-edged jeweler's screwdriver into the seam between the front and back sections of the remote on the left upper edge. Push the tip into the seam. Pull the tip down the length of the remote, then pull the tip across the width of the remote to the right side. Pull the tip up the length of the remote to the upper right edge, then push the tip across the width of the remote to the upper left edge. Pull the back case off with your fingers. Insert the tip of the screwdriver beneath the button battery inside the front section of the remote. Lift up on the tip to loosen the battery. Grip the edge of the battery with tweezers and pull it out of the battery slot. Grip the edge of a replacement battery with the tweezers, the same positive or negative side up as that of the original battery. Slide the replacement battery into the battery slot. Place the back section of the remote on the front section. Push down on the sides, tip and bottom of the back section to seat it to the front section.
2. Repair stuck buttons on the remote by spraying them with electrical cleaning spray by first separating the front section of the Wayne-Dalton keychain-sized remote from the back section. Remove the screws from around the circuit board inside the front section with a Phillips jeweler's screwdriver. Grip an edge of the circuit board with tweezers and pull it out of the front section. Turn the circuit board over and place it alongside the front section. Shake the electrical cleaning spray can for five seconds. Aim the nozzle on the can at the circuit board. Spray the circuit board with electrical cleaning spray for three seconds. Spray the front section of the remote with electrical cleaning spray for three seconds. Return the circuit board to its original position inside the front case. Reattach the screws. Place the back section of the remote back on the front section and press down on the sides to reengage the plastic clips. Wipe the Wayne-Dalton keychain-sized remote with a paper towel to remove any excess electrical cleaning spray.
3. Reinitialize the communication between the wireless receiver on the garage door opener and the remote by first pulling the Emergency Release lever on the motor's bracket to the locked position. Press the Program labeled button next to the lever and hold it in for a second before releasing it. Repeat this procedure if a beep isn't heard or a LED light doesn't illuminate, depending on the model. Press and hold one of the buttons on the remote for five seconds before releasing it -- if the button on the remote isn't pressed within 30 seconds of the beep or LED illuminating, you will have to start the procedure all over again. Release the Emergency release lever.